The first time I tasted a madeleine, I couldn’t understand what all the fuss was about. I found it to be rather dry and bland, a little like on over-baked cupcake. A few years later when next I tasted a madeleine, it was a revelation! It was crispy on the edges and light and fluffy on the inside, with just a hint of lemon flavour. Before I knew it I had devoured 5 of them!I now know that the deliciousness of a madeleine depends on 1) having a light and airy batter and 2) being served very, very fresh –...